History
XII—XIVистория древнейшей улицы Москвы

“He who lives in the courtyard
essentially has his own workshop”:

Zaryadye in the first half of the 18th century

Early 18th century

Plan of the Imperial Capital City
of Moscow, composed under the supervision of the architect Ivan Michurinets in 1739. Fragment

In 1712, St. Petersburg was declared the capital of Russia, and from 1713 onwards all the royal court servants were obliged
to move there.

Due to the mass exodus of court nobility and rich merchants to the new capital city lasted through the 1750s, almost no substantive construction took place in Zaryadye. At best, old stone buildings were rebuilt for new purposes but were still peripheral and wooden. As a result, the grand Moscow market, with its rows of stone shops with wooden counters and stalls, began to spread farther east of Kitay Gorod, gradually swallowing up parts of Varvarka Street and the inner squares of Zaryadye.

In the first land survey plan of Moscow (The Plan of the Imperial Capital City of Moscow, compiled by architect Ivan Michurin in 1739) Zaryadievsky, Pskov and Krivoy streets in Zaryadye are shown running south from Varvarka Street, and Mokrinsky, Ershov and Yeletsky lanes are shown originating from Moskvoretskaya Street and heading east. There were trading stalls that sold butter, apple, and other products on both sides of Moskvoretsky Street, many of which belonged to Ivan Medovshchikov, a top guild merchant who lived nearby on Varvarka Street.

The Kremlin and Kitai-Gorod on the first geodesic plan of Moscow. The surrounding earthen bastions constructed under Peter I are clearly visible.

A row of stalls, later referred to as the “lower shopping stalls”, shared a border with the large Mytny courtyard, which occupied an entire block.

At one point in time, the Mytny courtyard was a customs duty station to brand cattle to be sold in Moscow. But by 1725, the space was converted into a market with shops under the arched galleries of the courtyard. The entire premise of the courtyard was more or less occupied by meat and poultry traders, and there was an inn with snack bars and a pub in the southern building. Another large tavern was opened at the Varvarka gates, next to the old prisons.

Plans of the drinking taverns on Ulitsa Varvarka, along the Kitai-Gorod wall.Architects A.P. Roslavlev and V.S. Yakovlev. 1756

In addition to numerous shops, craftsman workshops, and drinking establishments, private textiles appeared in Zaryadye. From chronicled archives of the 18th century, we know: “he who lives in the courtyard essentially has his own workshop, and the courtyards created natural boundaries.” For example, the document tells us of a sizable textile mill near the Varvarka gate that housed 77 weaving machines owned by a certain F.S. Poddevalshchikov. Also on Varvarka, there was a small textile workshop (only five cloth weaving stations) inside the parish of the Church of St. Georgiy. The third and smallest textile workshop (with three looms) near the Church of Maximus the Blessed in Zaryadye, was owned by someone by the name of Athanasius Fedorov.

In 1732, the Empress Anna Ioannovna, who was temporarily residing in Moscow, ordered lanterns to be placed every 10 sazhens (about every 70 feet) on the streets inside the Kremlin and Kitay Gorod. This brought a new profession to Moscow, which lasted for nearly 200 years, of the lamplighter who would light the lanterns each evening, and then in the morning extinguish the oil (later replaced with kerosene). Varvarka Street and the smaller alleys of Zaryadye had already been paved with cobblestone by the time Anna Ioannovna began her reign as Empress. People who owned the plots of land facing the streets had to pay for pavement in front of their houses. The Znamensky Monastery, which occupied the entire block and bordered Varvarka, Pskov, Bolshoy Znamensky and Maly Znamensky, had to pave more than 500 square sazhens (more than a square kilometer) at their own expense, a costly endeavor in those days.

In 1793, the government took up the project of urban infrastructure in Zaryadye. Ivan Michurin, the author of the city’s first land survey and architect of office of the city’s police chief, put together a plan to lay sewage pipes leading to the Moscow River in the lower part of Zaryadye to help transfer sewage flowing from Kitay Gorod.

Sewage pipe plan in lower Zaraydye (between Varskaya street and the Moscow river) approved on September 21, 1739. Architect I.F. Michurin.

Despite the numerous attempts by Peter the Great and his successors to regulate and streamline Moscow’s construction unapproved stables, barns, sheds, shop stalls, snack bars, pancake kiosks, barber shops, and other structures were still being built in Kitay Gorod, especially in the Zaryadye area, throughout the 1820s, 1830s, and even 1840s. Without permission, land owners extended their property into vacant lots. But the situation changed in 1742 with the coronation of Elizabeth Petrovna.

Peter the Great’s daughter and her courtiers took notice of the contrast between St. Petersburg and the underdeveloped capital city of Moscow.
Under Elizabeth, streets in Moscow were widened to 16.8 meters and lanes to 8.4 m. Continuing her father’s work, Elizabeth established permanent “architectural classes” in the Moscow Police Chancellery to draft and review projects for construction. The office was staffed with a sufficient number of specialists. Finally, approval of all individual construction projects both on the street side and courtyard side became mandatory and ubiquitous.
Topography map showing elevation in Zaraydye from Michurin's sewage pipe laying plan.

In 1712, St. Petersburg was declared the capital of Russia, and from 1713 onwards all the royal court servants were obliged to move there.

chronology

November 27, 1730

Empress Anna Ioannovna issues decree on installing oil lamps in Moscow. Later, a decree on the same order was issued
on August 23, 1732, specifying the distance between
the lanterns – 10 sazhen in the Kremlin and Kitay Gorod.

Oil burning streetlamp and lamplighter on the streets of Moscow, fragment of an 18th-century engraving

May 29, 1737

The “Troitsky” fire destroys significant territory in Kitay Gorod, Varvarka Street, and Znamensky Monastery.

1739

The first geological survey of Moscow is compiled: “Scheme of the Imperial Capital City Moscow, composed under the supervision of architect Ivan Michurin in 1739”. In Zaryadye, the survey shows Zaryadyevsky, Pskov and Krivoy lanes, Varvarka Street running south, and Mokrinsky, Ershov and Yeletsky lanes running from Moskvoretsky street to the east. A row of shops (the lower shopping stalls) are indicated between Zaryadievsky Moskvoretskaya streets at the beginning of Varvarka (near the Church of St. Varvara) and behind the stalls is the large Mytny Dvor occupying the whole block on Mokrinsky street.

List of the people who compiled the geological survey of Moscow

June 2, 1760

The Znamensky Monastery reports that the territory’s ancient chambers are in a dire condition of repair.

Blueprint of the former Palace of the Romanov Boyars near Znamensky Monastery

1742

With the ascension of Elizabeth Petrovna to the throne, permanent “architectural classes” were created at the Moscow police department and were used to review and draft construction of individual estates. As stipulated by the decree, no building in the capital could be built without an approved
plan and blueprint.

New dimensions are given for streets in Moscow. The larger thoroughfares are widened to 8 sazhen, and small
side streets to 4 sazhen.

Blueprint and shop facades of atthe corner of Varvarka and Moskvoretskaya streets by director Ivan Medovshchikov. 1763 draft copy by architect V.S. Yakovlev.