History
XII—XIVистория древнейшей улицы Москвы

“Beyond the high fences”:

Social demographics of Zaryadye

16th – 17th centuries

The royal family leaves for the Easter morning service. N.V. Pirogov

Zaryadye is one of the oldest districts
in Moscow. For centuries, the city dramatically changed in appearance
and social composition. But, just
as in medieval times in Moscow, the rich and poor co-existed.

Archaeological data shows that between the 13th and 15th centuries, Veliky Posad (in Russian, the “Great Settlement”) was densely populated by artisans, especially in the riverside area (now Zaryadye). Trace remains of industries such foundry, jewelry, forging, pottery, leather making, shoemaking, tailoring, bone carving and other handicrafts were found in the excavation.

The plain at the bottom of the foothill in Veliky Posad was inhabited by merchants, due to the proximity to the shipping pier and Velikaya Street, the transport link for goods sent from the river up to the city. In the 15th and 16th centuries, the Surozh residents, the Greek and Russian merchants who traded with the Sudak, a Genoese colony in Crimea, lived in Zaryadye. In 1514, the Surozh merchants Vasily Bobr, Fyodor Veprya, and Yuri Urvikhvostov erected the stone church of St. Varvara on Varvarka Street.

In the second half of the 16th century, the social fabric of the densely populated Kitay Gorod and the southern division of Zaryadye began to change to some degree.

The noblemen and even the boyars began to move to these areas from the Kremlin, displacing the artisans of Beliy Gorod
(in Russian, “White Town”) and Zemlyanoy Gorod (“Earthen Town”).

The river pier was no longer part of the neighborhood layout — it was moved to the mouth of the Yauza river, further north and east. Velikaya Street was immersed in new construction.

The patchwork of different social populations in Zaryadye settled in homes of various size and type — from impoverished monk cells to vaulted brick chambers with stone flooring and wooden attics. Each home was surrounded by a fence, had a courtyard, and maintenance buildings. This can be clearly seen in the medieval Moscow city plan dating back to 1597. The whole city is composed of courtyards, both big and small. In Zaryadye, tariffs and customs for imported goods were collected in the Romanov, Monetny, and Mytny courtyards. The Mytny courtyard can be architecturally traced along old manure layers, since the cattle would wait in the courtyard for the owner to pay the tariff.

Market day in the old town. I.S. Goryushkin-Sorokopudov, 1910s
Old Rus. I.S. Goryushkin-Sorokopudov, 1910s.
Scene from the 17th century. I.S. Goryushkin-Sorokopudov, 1934
Arrival of the boyar at the monastery. I.S. Goryushkin-Sorokopudov, 1912
Situated at the end of Varvarka were prisons, including a special prison for drunkards,
a so-called 17th-century detox center.

The prisons were unfavorably located on a rugged and steep descent under Pskov Hill, and water from the hill would flow down into the prisons. There is evidence how prisoners would collectively beat the authorities and demand for them to clean out the clogged drainage pipes so that they “wouldn’t die in perdition.”

The 1626 census mentions Zaryadye residents Prince Vasily Yanshevich Suleshov — a cadet and royal carver at the court of Tsar Mikhail Fyodorovich — and boyar Ivan Fyodorovich Basmanov as living at the corner of Ershov Lane and Zachatievskaya Street. However, in the beginning of the 17th century, Zaryadye was by no means an aristocratic neighborhood: most residents couldn’t even afford to build a brick house. Nor did they want to, considering that life in wooden quarters was much healthier than in a stifled, damp stone building. The wealthier households — those of deacons, scribes, rank-and-file noblemen, merchants, priests, clerks, guards, and tradesmen — were fenced off with wicket gates.

City plans from the 1660s make note of several courtyards in Zaryadye that belong to known dignitaries. Simon the icon painter lived in a notable estate next to the St. Georgiy Church on Pskov Hill.

Plan of the site of the prison in the eastern part of Zaryadye
Plan of the street leading "from the Moskvoretskiye Gates to (Church of the) Conception" (former Velikaya Ulitsa) and adjoining side streets
Plan of the area "around the site of the prison” – between St George’s Church and the city (Kitai-Gorod) wall
Plan of the court of Ivan Afanasyevich Gavrenev near the Church of St Nicholas the Wet "on the street leading from the Moskvoretskiye Gates to the (Church of the) Conception" (the former Velikaya Ulitsa)
Plan of a block of "large" courts – the urban estates of wealthy owners – located by the Church of St Nicholas the Wet, on the street leading "from the Moskvoretskiye gate to the Conception" (former Velikaya Ulitsa)
Ostensibly, the famous imperial iconographer Simon Fyodorovich Ushakov (1626-1686) lived here.

In 1667, he appealed to the tsar with a petition: “Your great sovereign decree gives me, your servant, icons and student affairs, yet I only have a small courtyard in the dirty mud of Kitay Gorod, and nowhere to build even a straw house to make icons or teach students.” Ushakov’s request was granted and he was given and a complementary courtyard from the widowed Ksenia Yudina on Posolskaya Street (now Nikolskaya), which he refurbished, and then completely rebuilt after a fire, but he couldn’t hold onto the property. Later Ushakov likely was given stone chambers on Ipatyevsky street next to Trinity Church on Nikitinsky, monuments which have survived until present day.

One of the highest ranks of boyars — an okolnichiy — by the name of Ivan Afansaevich Gavrenev, who had previously served as a Duma clerk and was a top diplomat, also lived in Zaryadye. His courtyard was next to the Church of Nikolay Chudotvorets (the Miracle Worker). Adjacent was the court of Deacon Vasily Vladimirovich Brekhov, who became famous for his scandalous demeanor: he mingled with comrades in the military and government, which deacons usually did not do. Brekhov’s opponents wrote that his fraternization was to increase “his own great wealth and power”. Whether that was true or not, Brekhov came out ahead from the schism. Another interesting figure from this era is Deacon Anton Ivanovich Ivanov who died in 1709. He lived next to the prison yard. He oversaw the local administration department, and made a fortune from taking bribes from over 16,000 peasants. Razbogatev and Ivanov moved away from Zaryadye and built a palace on Vagankovsky hill, where the modern-day Pashkov house stands.

Zaryadye is one of the oldest districts in Moscow. For centuries, the city dramatically changed in appearance and social composition. But, just as in medieval times in Moscow, the rich and poor co-existed.

chronology

1611 - 1612

Like most of Moscow, Zaryadye suffered greatly during
the Time of Troubles and the occupation of the Polish. Homes and manors in Kitay Gorod are burned down to their core and looted. During the liberation of Moscow from the Polish,
the Varvarka gate and many parts of the Kitay Gorod
wall are damaged.

March 3, 1613

The Zemsky Sobor (Assembly of Land) elects Mikhail Fyodorovich Romanov to rule as tsar. The Romanov palace on Varvarka receives the status of the “Old Sovereign Court”.

Mikhail Fyodorovich is called upon to take the throne. M.V. Nesterov. 1885

1626

The decree “On Street Measurements” in Moscow increases
the width of large throughways in Kitay Gorod to 6.5 sazhen, small streets to 5 sazhen, alleyways to 4 sazhen, and pas1739sages through the city wall to 2.3 sazhen. Stone buildings are not touched under this order. Varvarka Street expands to 7 sazhen in width, and the Kozmodemyansky gate (which overlooked the Vasilievsky grasslands) was closed.

1626

A large fire breaks out in Moscow — burning out parts of Kitay Gorod as well as Zaryadye and Varvarka.

Fire. Miniature from the 16th-century Illuminated Compiled Chronicle

1629

The tsar issues a decree for major capital repairs to areas damaged during the Time of Troubles as well as the heavily dilapidated Kitay Gorod wall.

Dimensional drawings of the walls and towers of the Kitai-Gorod in Zaryadye. Early 19th century

1649

Moscow breaks off diplomatic and commercial ties with England 
as a result of the revolution and execution of King Charles I. English merchants are expelled from Russia. The chambers of the “Old English Court” in Zaryadye are transferred to the treasury.

“A German”, S.V. Ivanov, 1910.

1651

The former English court manor in Zaryadye is passed onto boyar Ilya Danilovich Miloslavsky, the father of Tsar Alexey Mikhailovich’s first wife.

1668

Zaryadye is hit by another fire which burns Znamensky monastery and the “Old Sovereign Court” nearly to the ground.

1674

“The upper chambers” of Znamensky Monastery are dismantled
“to the arch of the vault.” Architect Melentiy Alekseev erects a new two-story vaulted chamber atop the 16th-century white stone basement. This building is currently the State Historical Museum Palace of the Romanov Boyars.

Southern facade of the Palace of the Romanov Boyars. Kazakevich studio restoration project in the 1960s.

1676–1684

Stonemasons Fyodor Grigoryev and Grigory Onisimov from Kostroma build a row of monk cells at the Znamensky Monastery on Varvarka Street. During the new construction, the Znamensky Cathedral was preserved.

Northern facade and 17th-century bell tower of Kazakevich's. Renovation project by I. Kazakevich and E. Zhavoronkova in the 1960s.
Southern Facade of the men's quarters at Znamensky Monastery. Kazakevich studio restoration project in the 1960s.

1631

Tsar Mikhail Fyodorovich transfers the Romanov family palace on Varvarka to the church. The Znamensky Monastery
is founded at the ‘Old Sovereign Court’.

Znamensky Monastery in the beginning of the 13th century.
Engraving, fragment.

April 30, 1649

Tsar Alexey Mikhailovich’s decree “On the City Police Department” creates the first regular police supervision of the city, who also oversaw fire safety. “Ivan gathered five bailiff clerks who were there working under the former Godunov decree, and told them to come with him, and ride with him through the streets and alleys, day and night. And to patrol the streets and protect them so that fights, theft, and prostitution didn’t occur in the streets or at the tavern or tobacco shop…”

1657

The new building of the Church of St. Georgiy is built on Pskov Hill.

Southern facade of St. Georgiy Church Kazakevich studio restoration
project in the 1960s.

1676

The Miloslavsky family grant the former chambers of the ‘Old English Court’ to host the Metropolitan of Nizhny Novgorod and Patriarch Philaret. According to the transfer inventory, the “stone structure is completely dilapidated and the front
porch isn’t covered.”

Southern facade of the Old English Court. Restoration project of P. Baranovsky from Kazakevich's
studio in the 1960s.

1688

A first partially destroys Zaryadye. “On August 28, 7196
(year since the world’s creation), a fire torched Kitay Gorod.
It caught fire at the new embassy courtyard, and then burned six churches on the Znamensky Monastery compound and then roared up to the Church of the Conception on the Corner,
the guard station at Varvarka gate, and the courtyards of 67 people. Twelve courtyards were destroyed.”

1698–1699

The Church of St. Maxim the Confessor is erected on Varvarka, funded by the Sharovnikov merchants from Kostroma and Verkhovitinov family from Moscow.

Southern facade of the Church of St. Maximus. Kazakevich studio restoration project in the 1960s.