History
XII—XIVистория древнейшей улицы Москвы

“Preserving the antiquity character of the walls“:

The new face of Zaryadye after the War of 1812

Early 19th century

Ulitsa Varvarka and the Gostiny Dvor shopping arcade. Inset from the 1825 illustrated plan of Moscow

On September 2, 1812, after Russian troops retreated, Napoleon Bonaparte’s Grande Armée cavalry entered Moscow.

The next day, together with the rest of the military divisions, the Emperor of France himself entered the city. According to the testimony of Abbot Segur, a rector of the French Catholic Church of St. Louis in Moscow, a fire in the city broke out the evening of September 2 and early morning of September 3 at the Gostiny Dvor on Ilyinka and Solyanka. On September 3, the fire spread rapidly, aided by a strong wind. Zaryadye was in the path of the blaze and turned into ashes with scorched skeletons of stone building frames left standing here and there.

The fires drove out the French but left the ancient city devastated. In 1813, Empower Alexander I ordered by decree to establish a “Commission to Rebuild Moscow“. In the 1810s, Moscow and in particular the Zaryadye neighborhood experienced more rapid changes in urban and architectural experience than ever before. Architect Osip Beauvais oversaw the reconstruction, which was based off a design book issued by the Ministry of the Interior in 1809-1810 that standardized building facades built across the Russian empire. The sketchbook contained facade standards for buildings of different size and purpose: palaces, two, three, and four-story tenements with trading stalls, workshops, coachbuilders, stables, and barns. Lending for private developers was facilitated through the Trustee Council. The “Commission to Rebuild Moscow“ supervised the construction of five brick factories which provided developers with supplies on credit.

Mid 19th century sketches of wealthy estates on Mokrinsky and Krivoy streets sourced from the construction work order at the request of the collegiate assessor Nikifor Ivanovich Vasilenko.

In Zaryadye, several stone buildings, including many brick chambers from the 16th and 17th centuries, structurally survived the fire of 1812. The well-constructed buildings’ shells and frameworks were used to rebuild after the fire. As a result, many basements, walls, and arches from the era that preceded Peter the Great such as the Old English Court, the Palace of the Romanov Boyars on the territory of the Znamensky Monastery, the chambers on the corner of Zaryadevsky and Yershov streets, and the chambers and Church of Nikolay Chudotvorets (the Miracle Worker) — were all drastically rebuilt and hidden under the neoclassical facades of the first half of the nineteenth century.

Zaryadye in the Proposed Plan for the Capital City of Moscow. 1818. Fragment
Plan of the Capital City of Moscow, compiled by Khotev, sheet 1. The Kremlin to the Varvarskiye Gates. 1852-1853
View of the Foundlings Hospital and Moskvoretskaya embankment, Zaryadye. Inset from the 1827 illustrated plan of Moscow
View of the Kremlin and the western part of Zaryadye seen from the River Yauza. Inset from the 1827 illustrated plan of Moscow
The fortified structures erected under Peter the Great to thwart Charles VII’s march to Moscow began to be torn down
in 1819, and the trenches around the Kitay Gorod wall were filled in.

In the process of filling in the ground and trenches, the once curvy and winding Varvarka was significantly leveled and straightened. At the time, in 1819, in order to extend the thoroughfare from Moskvoretsky Street to wooden Moskvoretsky Bridge, either the ancient aqueduct or the doublewide gates of Kitay Gorod were demolished. In the mid-1820s, the Kitaygorosky road was built where there used to be trenches and ramparts. The transit way was then slightly larger than it is today. The refurbished the Kitay Gorod tower wall along the thoroughfare by bleaching it a bright white color.

The original Moscow reconstruction plan, designed by architect V.I. Geste, envisaged transferring the brick and wooden bread trading stalls attached to the Kitay Gorod all to another place in the city. However, Moscow governor Count Fyodor Rostopchin, who defended the interests of the warehouse owners — a large landowning class — didn’t agree with the architect. Rostopchin proposed building new bread shops “on the backside of the Kitay Gorod wall“, and worked an agreeable facade model which “gave them the appearance of fitting in with the ancient wall and strengthening the majestic tower.“ Geste was sidelined from the project and the new head, Osip Beauvais, developed a general project template for the bread stalls based on the standardized Empire-wide facade model. The entire exterior of the Kitay Gorod wall along the embankment was developed using this template up until 1820, effectively stunting development for an entire century.

From 1823 to 1824, the Kremlin and Moskvoretsky embankments were reconstructed and “lined with stone“ for the first time since the end of Catherine the Great’s reign. The walls of the embankments were covered in cut stones. Staircases and passages to the river were added to the Moskvoretsky embankment in the Zaryadye neighborhood as a source to extinguish fires as well as to unload cargoes arriving on the river. Most importantly, wholesale grain was stored in the stalls along the waterfront. Many trees were planted alongside the embankment after the restoration.

View of the Moscow Kremlin from Ustinsky bridge, M. N. Vorobyov, 1818.
Access to drinking water was a serious problem for Zaryadye residents at the time. A system for Moscow’s city water supply first began to be constructed under Catherine II, but was only launched under her grandson Alexander I in 1804.

Before that, water trucks would drive around the city and sell drinking water in barrels. Many townspeople dug wells on their land. The Moscow city water pipeline – a system of water retention, aqueducts, and pipelines – supplied drinking water from the Moscow region to a network of fountains located in the streets and squares in the city. Moscow residents visited these fountains and basins, bringing home water in buckets for cooking and other basic needs. Often, city dwellers had to walk pretty far to a water source and wait in lines. Townspeople continued to buy clean water from water wagons until all the neighborhoods were outfitted with water fountains. A water fountain was built on Zaryadsky Lane in 1843 as a branch of the Mytishchi water pipeline. According to the memoirs of contemporaries, the fountain “resembled a sink attached to a wall” on one of the houses. Before this water source, for ten years the closest clean water fountain to Zaryadye was on Varvarka Square. Additionally, some Zaryadye residents had wells on their private estates and church compounds – Znamensky Monastery was especially famous for its water source. For some reason, the water had a salty taste, which is why, even after a public fountain came to Zaryadsky Lane, locals still preferred the monastery’s water to preserve cucumbers and other pickled vegetables for winter.

On September 2, 1812, after Russian troops retreated, Napoleon Bonaparte’s Grande Armée cavalry entered Moscow.

chronology

September 2-6, 1812

The great fire of 1812 and Napoleon occupation.

The Kremlin during the Moscow Fire of 1812. O. Ohlendorf

May 5, 1813

Alexander I establishes the “Commission to Rebuild Moscow”
to help rebuild the city after the fire of 1812.

City plan from 1813 indicating the scorched out and surviving parts of the city.

1818

The construction of wholesale grain storage buildings (called labaz) along the Kitay Gorod wall and the river embankment begins. The architecture plan is created by Osip Beauvais.

Construction project of a labaz, a food storage structure, Prince Nikolay Sergeevich Gagarin. Labaz facade. Architect Osip Beauvais.

1823

The earthy bastions and moat erected by Peter the Great around the walls of the Kremlin and Kitay Gorod are finally filled in.

1817

City-wide repairs of the Kitay Gorod wall and towers by architect Osip Beauvais. The walls are bleached bright white.

Portrait of Osip Beauvais from the 1820s. Unknown artist.

1818

A preserved bell tower and refectory are erected
at the Church of St. Georgiy on Pskov Hill.

1823—1824

Reconstruction of the Kremlin and Moskvoretskaya embankments. The walls were paved with darker broadstone and staircases and pathways were created on the Moskvoretskaya embankment for people to reach the river to unload cargo and collect water.

View of the Kremlin, Moskvoretsky Bridge and part of the Moskvoretskaya Embankment in Zaryadye, seen from across the river in Zamoskvorechye, Louis Bichebois, mid-19th century

1826

Prince Alexander Golitsyn, Moscow’s Governor General, allows Jewish merchants and artisans from the countryside to work in Moscow for a limited period of time. They stayed at the Glebovsky settlement on Znamensky street in Zaryadye. A few years later, a permanent Jewish trade and artisan community appear in Zaryadye.

1843

A city water system and fountains are installed in Zaryadye. Before, residents had to get their clean public water from a fountain in Varvarka Square or from churches and private estates.

Varvarka gate in Kitay Gorod. From the “Russian Antiquities” edition by A.A. Martinov, 1859.

1824—1825

Creation and development of the Kitaygorodsky passage from Varvarka Square to the Moscow river along the eastern edge of Zaryadye. It was 190 sazhen long and 6.72 sazhen wide.

Kozmodemyansky gate and corner of the Kitay Gorod wall viewed from Kitaygorodsky passage. D.P. Sykhov. Drawing. 1928.

1857—1858

Architect Fyodor Richter restores and converts the old living quarters the state purchased from Znamensky Monastery.

The chambers of the Romanov boyars at the start of restoration works. V.F. Timm, lithography, 1857

August 22, 1859

The Palace of the Romanov Boyars opens in the former state living quarters.

Palace of the Romanov Boyars before restoration. Lithograph. Late 19th century.